Restaurant Review: Papa Roux

There's just something about Indy's east side.

It's as if they refuse to adhere to the rules of chain restaurants and retail shops. They keep plopping Mom and Pop stores and eateries all over the neighborhood and then have the audacity to not care if the rest of the metro area population likes it or not.

For those of you who have not made it to that side of Indianapolis ... it's not your luxurious, with-a-view community comparable to the far north and south sides. It's what used to be referred to as a blue-collar neighborhood.

No frills.

No nonsense.

However, you'll find that non-chains are, well, hit and miss, actually. I won't say they are better than chains, neither will I vow all chains are spectacular choices for service or food.

It's much like everything else in life; good, bad, and that unforgivable level---  mediocrity.
You'll remember I encouraged, practically begged, you to check out Oishi Sushi at 10th and Shadeland Avenue last year. A diamond interior shelled by a rough exterior, I called it.

Papa Roux is not a serene interior with a plain exterior. Nope. What you see on the outside is exactly what you're going to get on the inside. Located at 10th and Post (look close or you'll miss it) this joint is having none of your fanciful ways.

You want Cajun food? Have a seat.
You want linen and crystal? Move along.
Kings, carpenters, and restaurant critics all get the same treatment. Want to be placed on a pedestal? Hit the road Jack. These folks treat their customers all the same, as it should be. Loyal customers stop in frequently for a dose of the say-it-like-it-is personality of Papa Roux and his staff. Not rude, or even impolite, just down-to-earth, and busy, very busy; this is always a good sign.
 I met up with a buddy of mine, Dick Davis (Burger Meister, I call him), who writes a blog (smallerindiana.com/group/burgerquest) about, you guessed it, burgers. He's foregone burgers and eaten at Papa's several times and was dismayed when I mentioned that I "have been meaning to get over there" but hadn't made it yet. I wanted to take a chance on finding a great muffelatta and check out that wall I keep hearing about.

Deciding if one Cajun or Creole eatery is more authentic is as futile as determining which restaurant's fried chicken is more Midwest-authentic. There are many cooks and styles in every locale. It's more about capturing the essence of the region.

Let’s get to the food.

The red beans and rice were, quite frankly, the tastiest I have ever eaten, anywhere, including in the French Quarter, with a balanced seasoning and spice combination. The French bread pudding was softly textured with a creamy, cinnamon flavor. Some other sides offered were etouffee and cornbread.

Po Boy sandwiches are the house specialty, with the pulled pork taking top vote over my coveted muffaletta. Po Boys are served topped with cole slaw. All sandwiches are also served with unlimited sides.

Unlimited...

I suggest getting a full-sized sandwich, eating half there with the unlimited sides, and take the other half home.

Bottom Line: All in all, Papa Roux is worth twice the drive, for the food, the value and for the atmosphere. Remember to put your name on the wall.

Elizabeth J. Musgrave is a syndicated columnist, travel writer and theater critic. Catch her as Indy’s Arts & Entertainment Adviser on 93.1 WIBC and follow her on Facebook, Twitter (@gottago) and at GottaGo.us. Comments can be sent to elizabeth@gottago.us.

Gotta Go is published in M magazine and the following newspapers: South Sider Voice, West Side Community News, New Palestine Reporter, West Indianapolis Community News, Pendleton Times Reporter, Fortville-McCordsville Reporter, and Indiana Weekender

Photo credit: E J Musgrave

Restaurant Review: Oishi Sushi

Photo by Oishi Sushi

Sushi cravings can be cured if you know where to go. Oishi Sushi and Grill, 6929 E. 10^th Street, offers freshly-made Japanese cuisine in an atmosphere infused with soft music, quiet servers and polished wood.

The wine list boasts seven types of sake, hot and cold; the beer list includes domestic and imports. From the tea list I chose bubble tea, a frothy chilled concoction blending tea, milk and tapioca.

With so many choices on the extensive appetizer menu, including yaki ika, a barbecue squid with teriyaki sauce, the decision was difficult. The shrimp tempura decided on, however, was medium in size and delicate in flavor.

Offered on the menu is more than sushi. For the faint of heart, udon and soba may be the best choice. The Japanese noodles may be served chilled, with sautéed shrimp, thinly sliced beef or seafood. Served in eight slices, the California roll, Daddy Dragon, is topped with grilled eel. Aesthetically pleasing, this dish was also surprisingly filling. Tofu dishes are available for the vegans among us. Teriyaki is offered for those wanting food with a more familiar name.

Tatami rooms are available by chance or reservation. Each private unit seats four to five comfortably.On my get-the-next-time list: Uni sea urchin, green tea Mo Chi ice cream and cold sake.

Bottom Line: Oishi Sushi is a perfect example of why you shouldn't judge a book by its cover. With its rough exterior, you will have to trust me and enter to find the pearl of the east side. And...trust me, it is worth the time and effort to find.


Oishi Sushi: 317-356-8880; IndyOishi.com

Elizabeth J. Musgrave is a syndicated columnist, travel writer, performing arts and restaurant critic. Catch her as Indy’s Arts & Entertainment Adviser on 93 WIBC, and follow her on Twitter @ejmusgrave1 and Facebook. Gotta Go is published in the following newspapers: South Sider Voice, Indiana Weekender, New Palestine Reporter, Pendleton Times Reporter and Fortville-McCordsville Reporter.