Restaurant Review: The Roost

Coffee Cake                                                Image/IzzyEvans

The Roost has unveiled its new menu and it consists of all the comfort foods a Midwesterner could hope for.
Meatloaf? Check. Fried chicken? Oh yeah. Gravy? Poured on anything that sits still long enough.

Located at 7373 E. 116th St (right at Allisonville Rd.) The Roost is the second oldest member of the Sahm's Restaurant Group, which has been in existence for about 25 years. Normally known as a breakfast and brunch spot for residents of Fishers and other northsiders, the restaurant recently launched its new menu for dinner.

Having been a comfort food-Midwest style cook for my entire life, I am always happy to find it done well in a restaurant. It is absolutely heartbreaking to crave fried chicken, mashed potatoes and green beans, and end up with a mountain of flavorless white glob, mushy green beans (well done, they are my personal favorite vegetable) and greasy, over-cooked poultry.

Fried Chicken                           Image/IzzyEvans

The Roost provides crispy, juicy fried chicken, mashed potatoes worth eating sans gravy (not that you would) and grean beans seasoned just right. Other menu items worth mentioning are the apple butter and fried biscuits which could satisfy as an addition to any meal, from breakfast on; meatloaf, which was juicy and great alone or as a sandwich, and dessert.

Fried Biscuits/Apple Butter        Image/IzzyEvans

Dessert, which rightfully has many restaurants fighting for a "wow" factor item, can be powerful in its own simplicity. Case in point: Sour Cream Coffee Cake. The northside food spot has outdone itself by not trying to outdo itself. The coffee cake represents the best in flavors without attempting to ooze anything, crystallize sugar or even contain the usual must-have ---- chocolate. A light dusting of powdered sugar is all that is required to carry this cinnamon-enhanced to its goal of satisfying without saturating your sweet tooth.

Bottom Line: The Roost sets out what intends to do: provide Hoosiers with comfort food done simply, done well, and done right here in Indy.

For a full menu, directions and information, visit Sahms/TheRoost

Elizabeth J. Musgrave is a syndicated columnist, travel writer, performing arts and restaurant critic. Catch her as Indy’s Entertainment Adviser on 93 WIBC, and follow her on Twitter @GottaGo and Facebook. Gotta Go is published in M magazine and the following newspapers: South Sider Voice, Indiana Weekender, New Palestine Reporter, Pendleton Times Reporter and Fortville-McCordsville Reporter.

Book Review: Cafe Indiana

Cafe Indiana, written by Joanne Raetz Stuttgen, covers mom-and-pop eateries throughout the Hoosier state and is divided into six sections: North, South, East, West, Central and South Central, as determined by tourism sources. With 181 cafes featured, Stuttgen was able to account for the small town (fewer than 10,000) diner and its significance to the town's personality.


The resident of Indiana since 1990 is also the author of Cafe Indiana Cookbook, co-authored by Indianapolis Star food editor Jolene Ketzenberger, for those who must try making the local goodies in their own kitchen. Stuttgen includes a list of "Next Best Bet" cafes which may have had something special on the menu, or notable decor, making it worth mentioning.


What resonates throughout the book is the author's appreciation, affection and respect for cafes in small town America. The history, the local culture and personal side of each is brought forth in a personable, feel-like-you-know-them style. And, you probably do. They are that pie cafe you stop at on your way for a scenic Sunday drive, the worth-driving-to tenderloin joint just past nowhere and the "do you remember the name of that little place, honey" eatery that you both enjoy so much because of the fun decor, great food and friendly people.


They come with all kinds of names, decor and menus, and yet they are all pretty much the same. A non-chain place with quirky decor, simple foods and hard-working owners who are willing to sit and chat. Not the glitzy type with the latest food trend, these places have the local school's banners on the wall, the owner's collection of Coca-cola items and the local regulars.


From R&S Cafe in Linden, where owner Sue makes her own tenderloins, noodles and pie dough, to Dinky Diner in Garrett where Steve serves up hand-dipped milkshakes and malts, to Harold’s in Poseyville, where Patti's pan-fried chicken brings locals, celebrities and tourists alike, the story is the same. Everyone is welcome.


Bottom Line: Cafe Indiana is an excellent guide to small town cafes and leaves the reader with a longing to hop in the car, with the book, to explore the Hoosier state's hidden treasure of mom-and-pop eateries.


Website: www.wisc.edu/wisconsinpress
Photo: Kay Westhues


Elizabeth J. Musgrave is a syndicated columnist, travel writer and theater critic. Catch her as Indy’s Arts & Entertainment Adviser on 93 WIBC and follow her on Twitter @ejmusgrave1 and Facebook.


Gotta Go is published in the following newspapers: South Sider Voice, Indiana Weekender, West Side Community News, New Palestine Reporter, West Indianapolis Community News, Pendleton Times Reporter and Fortville-McCordsville Reporter.