Restaurant Review: The Roost

Coffee Cake                                                Image/IzzyEvans

The Roost has unveiled its new menu and it consists of all the comfort foods a Midwesterner could hope for.
Meatloaf? Check. Fried chicken? Oh yeah. Gravy? Poured on anything that sits still long enough.

Located at 7373 E. 116th St (right at Allisonville Rd.) The Roost is the second oldest member of the Sahm's Restaurant Group, which has been in existence for about 25 years. Normally known as a breakfast and brunch spot for residents of Fishers and other northsiders, the restaurant recently launched its new menu for dinner.

Having been a comfort food-Midwest style cook for my entire life, I am always happy to find it done well in a restaurant. It is absolutely heartbreaking to crave fried chicken, mashed potatoes and green beans, and end up with a mountain of flavorless white glob, mushy green beans (well done, they are my personal favorite vegetable) and greasy, over-cooked poultry.

Fried Chicken                           Image/IzzyEvans

The Roost provides crispy, juicy fried chicken, mashed potatoes worth eating sans gravy (not that you would) and grean beans seasoned just right. Other menu items worth mentioning are the apple butter and fried biscuits which could satisfy as an addition to any meal, from breakfast on; meatloaf, which was juicy and great alone or as a sandwich, and dessert.

Fried Biscuits/Apple Butter        Image/IzzyEvans

Dessert, which rightfully has many restaurants fighting for a "wow" factor item, can be powerful in its own simplicity. Case in point: Sour Cream Coffee Cake. The northside food spot has outdone itself by not trying to outdo itself. The coffee cake represents the best in flavors without attempting to ooze anything, crystallize sugar or even contain the usual must-have ---- chocolate. A light dusting of powdered sugar is all that is required to carry this cinnamon-enhanced to its goal of satisfying without saturating your sweet tooth.

Bottom Line: The Roost sets out what intends to do: provide Hoosiers with comfort food done simply, done well, and done right here in Indy.

For a full menu, directions and information, visit Sahms/TheRoost

Elizabeth J. Musgrave is a syndicated columnist, travel writer, performing arts and restaurant critic. Catch her as Indy’s Entertainment Adviser on 93 WIBC, and follow her on Twitter @GottaGo and Facebook. Gotta Go is published in M magazine and the following newspapers: South Sider Voice, Indiana Weekender, New Palestine Reporter, Pendleton Times Reporter and Fortville-McCordsville Reporter.